Albanian Alps Adventure
Day 3
The one with… the cat from New York, the café in the middle of nowhere and the singing on the summit.
Summary
Today was everything I imagined an Albanian Alps adventure would be. Rocky tracks, mountain cafés that seem to appear by magic, spectacular views, tired legs and a few unexpected surprises along the way. We climbed high into the rugged peaks of the Accursed Mountains, shared the trail with hikers from around the world, met a cat that had travelled from New York, and ended the day with Pilates, meditation and a three-course feast. A challenging day for many, but one that will stay in the memory for a very long time.
The Long-Winded Version
Last night, we had the thunderstorms of all thunderstorms. Lightning danced over the mountains and the thunder was so loud that it rattled the windows, yet somehow it all felt spectacular rather than frightening.
Despite the noise, I drifted off to sleep with no issues at all. It must be this mountain air.
7.00am Morning routine completed
There is nothing better than journaling on a balcony with stunning scenery all around me.
7.30am Breakfast and lunch preparations
Downstairs, everyone is in the queue making lunch. There are bread rolls, cheese, rice, avocados, apples and a whole range of other things laid out on the tables.
Breakfast is also a feast. The Albanians certainly know how to eat.
Although, I’m not convinced they’ve mastered coffee yet. You could practically stand your spoon up in it, it was that thick and strong.
8.30am-ish The next adventure begins
After a guided yoga session by Maxine, which was wonderful, we pile into two minibuses that take us to the trailhead.
Calling it a road would be generous. It was more like driving along a rocky riverbed, and how we all managed to stay in our seats I’ll never know.
I’m just glad I took extra travel sickness tablets this morning.
The driver leans on the horn as he attempts to persuade several enormous horned cows to move off the track.
9.27am The climb begins
For the first section, we are being led by a local Albanian guide called David, who speaks no English and appears to be tackling the mountain in jeans and a jumper.
Apparently, there are two routes to the summit. The summer route is currently closed due to a large landslide of snow and ice, so we are taking the winter route instead.
David is leading from the front, James is in the middle of the group and I’m tail walking.
It’s a slow climb upwards through boulders, pine forests and sections with dramatic drops into the valley below. And yes, there is quite a bit of hands-down scrambling involved.
Suddenly, I hear shouting from further ahead.
It’s David.
Then I hear a familiar voice as Kelly joins in:
“It’s not safe!”
“Wrong way!”
“Don’t go that way!”
Someone had spotted hikers across the valley taking the closed summer route and David was desperately trying to warn them.
From where we were standing, it looked tempting enough, but there was clearly a good reason it had been closed.
10.39am A café in the middle of the mountain
Yep, halfway up a mountain. How bizarre.
It’s a makeshift wooden shack perched beside a stream. The water from the stream feeds the toilet and keeps a large tub of drinks beautifully cold.
They serve tea, coffee, snacks and even beer. Absolutely brilliant, and a very welcome break.
The weather is perfect for hiking. Not too hot, not too cold, with enough cloud cover to make the climb comfortable.
Once the technical section is completed, we say goodbye to David. We have reached the point where the summer and winter routes meet, and James now takes over for the final push to the summit.
The mountains surrounding us are part of the Albanian Alps, often known locally as the Accursed Mountains. Despite the dramatic name, they’re some of the most beautiful mountains I’ve ever seen, with jagged limestone peaks rising above deep green valleys.
Summit time
Wow.
I dropped my pack and left it with those having lunch below, while a few of us climbed to a nearby viewpoint.
The views were simply breathtaking.
I breathed it all in, thinking that my life has brought me here.
How bloody amazing.
As we headed back down, Paula and I started singing:
Two other hikers joined in and suddenly we had a little international mountain choir.
12.45pm Lunch with a view
And what a view.
Sitting next to me is a young couple carrying a cat.
Meet Apollo
Not just any cat. A cat called Apollo that had travelled all the way from New York. In a backpack. 😂
The young lady looked a little shaken and soon explained why.
They hadn’t known that the summer route was closed and had followed a guide who apparently didn’t know either.
At one point, they were crawling across snow and ice when the surface collapsed beneath them.
She genuinely thought she was going to die. All while carrying Apollo on her back.
The cat seemed remarkably unfazed by the whole experience.
She politely asked if they could follow our guide down the mountain.
Of course they could.
2.00pm The descent
Once past the more exposed sections, the forest trail down was magical.
Ancient pine trees, mountain streams and dappled sunlight filtering through the branches.
Then, as if by magic, another café appeared in the middle of nowhere.
Cat lady joined us and we got to know the couple a little better.
Unfortunately, she had a couple of slips on the way down. In fairness, she was wearing regular trainers rather than hiking shoes, and this trail wasn’t exactly forgiving.
If I’m honest, the final hour was a slog.
Knees aching, that shaking you get in your thighs and the sun now beating down on us.
5.30pm We made it
While James sorted out the room keys, Ann led a Pilates stretching session in the garden.
This was followed by Maxine guiding us through a meditation session.
If only I could book yoga and Pilates teachers on every single trip.
7.00pm Dinner
Dinner was another three-course feast.
Soup. Salads. Beef and potatoes. Cake.
The conversation flowed, the laughter was loud and everyone looked tired but happy.
8.30pm Off with the fairies
I retreat to my room and, before long, I’m off with the fairies.
What a day.
Tomorrow’s hike is longer at around 15 miles, so a few people have decided to swap walking boots for a visit to the famous Blue Eye of Theth instead.
Whatever they choose, I’m pretty sure it’s going to be another memorable day.
Until tomorrow.
Thanks for following along.
