Albanian Alps Adventure
Day 4
The one with… the whole cucumber, the snowball fight with a dog and the border crossing.
Summary
Today was our biggest challenge of the trip. A long, demanding trek from Theth in Albania across the mountains into Montenegro, covering around 23km (15 miles) of rugged alpine terrain. It was a day of breathtaking scenery, aching legs, tears, laughter, wildflowers, stray dogs, snow patches and more determination than I knew some people possessed. For many, this was the toughest hike they had ever completed. For all of us, it was a day we will never forget.
The Long-Winded Version
Today we are walking from Theth, over the Montenegrin border, to Vusanje.
The day starts Albanian style.
Breakfast was all set up, but we had to wait while photographs were taken of the impressive spread.
James has the patience of a saint as he desperately tries to explain that one member of our group is gluten-free and cannot have bread in her packed lunch.
When Trudi opened her lunch later, there was a whole cucumber inside.
Not sliced.
And there was bread. 😂
9.20am Finally, we’re off
We’re an hour late, but finally we’re moving.
It’s about a mile before the actual trail begins and some people are already nursing wobbly legs from yesterday’s adventure.
I have a feeling this could be an interesting day.
Thankfully, spirits are high and energy levels seem good.
The hike begins
The first section takes us through rocky terrain and across several mountain streams.
My feet are soaking and we haven’t even walked two miles yet.
The water is crystal clear, tumbling down from higher up the mountains, and the air feels wonderfully fresh. The scent of pine trees mixes with damp earth and wild herbs growing beside the trail.
It’s not quite as technical as yesterday’s hike, but it manages to kick our backsides in a completely different way.
Every time we stop for a breather, I turn around and have one of those moments where I genuinely have to remind myself that this is real.
Jagged limestone peaks tower above us, green valleys stretch into the distance and waterfalls tumble down the mountainsides.
The scenery feels almost too perfect, as though someone has painted it.
10.35am A mountain oasis
We’re all puffing and panting when a little oasis appears.
A tiny mountain shack selling cold drinks.
And an actual toilet.
I immediately regret the wild wee I had five minutes earlier.
James points towards a saddle high on the mountain behind us.
“Once we reach that pass, it’s downhill and rich meadows.”
We all look up.
Then it dawns on us.
Onwards and upwards.
The ascent is relentless. The higher we climb, the thinner the air feels.
The rocky path demands complete concentration because one careless step could easily send you sprawling.
Progress is slow.
But nobody gives up.
2.00pm Summit time
We finally reach the summit.
High fives all round. A few tears. Lots of smiles.
We collapse onto the grassy saddle between the mountains, take off our shoes and enjoy what is genuinely one of the best ham salad rolls I’ve ever tasted.
Randomly, there are three stray dogs up here.
They seem completely at home.
One curls up beside Dee and promptly falls asleep. Another settles against Ann’s shoes as though they’ve been friends for years.
It is one of those wonderfully strange mountain moments that nobody can quite explain.
2.36pm The descent begins
Well… I say descent.
That doesn’t mean it’s all downhill.
Oh no. There are still plenty of cheeky climbs thrown in for good measure.
The landscape on this side of the mountain feels completely different.
The harsh grey rock gives way to lush alpine meadows bursting with colour.
Yellow flowers known as “eggs and bacon” sway in the breeze alongside deep purple blooms, vivid blue wildflowers and delicate orchids hidden amongst the grasses.
The air smells sweet and fresh. Everywhere you look, there seems to be another postcard view.
Then Kelly spots snow.
Within seconds, she is having a snowball fight with one of the dogs that has now officially joined our walking group.
This is quickly followed by a snow angel.
The endless descent
At first, we’re all admiring the alpine forests, flower-filled meadows and towering rock formations.
But after ten miles over a mountain, even spectacular scenery starts to lose its novelty when your feet hurt.
People are getting tired.
Really tired.
There are a few slips. A few falls. A few more tears.
Several plasters are deployed.
Note to self: replenish the first-aid kit.
I also slip on loose stones and land flat on my backside more than once.
Crossing into Montenegro
Eventually, we reach the border crossing and step into Montenegro.
It reminds me a little of the French-Spanish border on the Camino in the Pyrenees.
A simple trig point. Huge mountains behind us.
No border control. No queues. No passport checks.
And another excuse for photographs and a quick break.
7.00pm The final slog
We still have around three miles to go.
We stop briefly at an old shepherd’s hut before continuing towards the famous Blue Eye waterfall.
The turquoise water looks almost unreal, glowing against the surrounding rock.
I wish we’d had more time to spend there.
By now, however, everyone is running on determination.
There is nothing quite like that feeling when you finally start seeing houses in the distance.
Eventually, we stumble into the car park at around 8.00pm.
Our driver has been patiently waiting for us for a few hours.
There’s no time to stop for food. We simply pile into the people carrier, with the remainder of the group following behind in another vehicle, and set off.
The mystery tour
We’re so exhausted that it takes us a while to realise the driver appears to be driving around in circles trying to find his way out of town.
Had I possessed any energy whatsoever, I would have found this hilarious.
James eventually puts Podgorica into Google Maps and passes his phone to me, as I’m sitting next to the driver.
I hold the phone in front of him so he can see where he’s supposed to be going.
Apparently, he was an ex-policeman.
His navigation skills might have been questionable, but he more than redeemed himself when we reached the border.
He somehow sweet-talked the border officials and got us through remarkably quickly.
His driving, thankfully, was excellent. The roads twisted and turned through the mountains, but he took everything steadily and, for once, I didn’t feel remotely travel sick.
11.26pm We finally arrive
You should have seen everyone trying to get out of the vehicle as we finally disembarked.
I had a complete fit of the giggles.
We check into the hotel.
Some people head off in search of food.
I’m done, and it’s far too late for food for me.
A quick shower. A little stretching. Then straight into bed.
Absolutely exhausted.
Absolutely shattered.
Final Thought
One thing I’ve learned over the years is that adventure isn’t about proving something to other people.
It’s about finding the challenge that’s right for you.
Six members of our group completed yesterday’s mountain crossing but decided that today’s hike wasn’t for them. Instead, they headed off to visit the Blue Eye and explore the area at a gentler pace.
From the photographs and stories, it looks as though they had an absolutely brilliant day.
And that’s exactly how it should be.
Some people pushed themselves further than they ever thought possible today. Others listened to their bodies and chose a different adventure.
Both decisions were the right ones.
Because real adventure isn’t about keeping up with anyone else. It’s about knowing your own limits, stretching them when it feels right, and having the confidence to choose a different path when it doesn’t.
The mountains don’t care how far you walk.
The important thing is that you come away with memories, stories and a smile.
Judging by today’s laughter, tears, snow angels, stray dogs and slightly questionable packed lunches, I’d say we all achieved that.
